Categories

Categories

Account Navigation

Account Navigation

Currency - All prices are in AUD

Currency - All prices are in AUD
 Loading... Please wait...
Bentgate Mountaineering

Categories

Categories

Blog

Crampons for Ski Mountaineering: To Access Steep or Icy Terrain

Posted by Matt Inoue on

Crampons for Ski Mountaineering: To Access Steep and Icy Terrain

By Matt Inoue

As the snowpack settles and the days get longer, ski mountaineering becomes more reasonable and appealing throughout Colorado. In order to safely access the multitude of steep objectives, especially couloirs or peaks such as Torreys Peak’s Tuning Forks, crampons are needed to provide solid footing on firm snow and icy crusts. At Bentgate we offer a variety of crampons that may be suitable depending on your objectives -- in general, the two types of crampons used in ski mountaineering are ski crampons and boot crampons. Ski crampons attach to ski bindings and are used for low-angle movement across glaciers, snowfields, and wind-compacted snow. Boot crampons are needed for steeper terrain on soft/firm snow and are also suitable for ice, depending on the crampon and the hardness of the ice. Before purchasing crampons anywhere, make sure that you check the fit of the crampon-boot combination you plan to use.

Boot Crampons


Boot crampons are worn on the bottom of a ski boot (or mountaineering boot) and offer the highest level of security and climbing ability on steep snow and alpine ice. When choosing a crampon, you should consider a variety of factors: front point configuration, attachment style (binding between crampon and boot), and material construction. For ski mountaineering, glacier travel, and general mountaineering, you almost always want a dual-point, light-weight crampon that gives good purchase in both soft and firm snow without weighing you down on the approach. My personal favorites are shown in the table at the right and include a ski mountaineering specific crampon (CAMP XLC Nanotech Semi-auto) and a light general mountaineering crampon (Black Diamond Sabretooth Clip).

CAMP XLC Nanotech Semi-auto

Pros:
  • Ultralight (558g)
  • Compatible with most ski and hiking boots
  • Steel front points

Cons:

  • Feels flimsy on rock or hard, dense ice
  • Pricey ($199.95)

Black Diamond Sabretooth Clip

Pros:
  • Good penetration on firm snow / ice
  • Stainless steel gives durability
  • Walks naturally
  • Comes with anti-balling plates
  • Economical ($139.95)

Cons:

  • Weight (968g)

When looking at the multitude of crampon options, you might notice the wide design and performance differences between the various models. Crampons range from minimalist, ultralight ski mountaineering crampons to durable, general mountaineering crampons to aggressive crampons for vertical ice, mixed and dry tooling. To help navigate the different options here is a table of the primary factors to think about when considering boot crampons.

Selection Factor

OptionsEditor Notes
Front Point Configuration
  • Mono-point: A single, usually longer front point gives better penetration and precision but less stability and purchase in soft ice / firm snow
  • Dual-point, horizontal: The most common front point setup with two level front points giving stability on snow and ice and reduced shearing on softer snow
  • Staggered: One short and one long point offer a balance between precision (i.e. mixed ice/rock performance) and stability on ice/snow
When climbing couloirs, I prefer to use a crampon with dual, horizontal front points as they tend to perform better on both soft and firm snow. Shorter, dual front points also tend to walk more naturally.
Attachment Style /Boot Compatibility
  • Automatic: A heel cable-latch system and toe wire fit into reinforced welts built into the boot
  • Strap: Rounded straps (usually rubber) fit over the ankle cuff and boot toe and are connected with a stiff cloth strap and buckle system
  • Hybrid / Semi-auto: A heel cable-latch system gives firm heel hold while a strap toe attachment widens boot compatibility; semi-auto crampons require a heel welt/heel bail
Although automatic crampons are slightly lighter, properly adjusted semi-auto or strap crampons will perform equally well on soft to firm snow and most ice. Not all crampons fit all boots equally - see how crampons fit your boots before you purchase. Strap crampons give you the most versatility and can be used on boots that lack heel and toe welts.
Material Construction
  • Chromoly Steel: The tried-and-true steel construction offers easy sharpening and durability but is heavier than aluminum and prone to rust.
  • Stainless Steel: SS avoids toxic and temporary coatings but is very resistant to corrosion/rust. However, it is more difficult to sharpen (than chromoly steel) and there have been repeated, catastrophic failures of SS crampons. See references for more detail.
  • Aluminum: Weight is lower with aluminum but at the cost of durability on rock or water ice and penetration of firm snow and ice. Great for snow and aerated ice but will bend on harder mediums.
Although I prefer chromoly steel crampons for ice climbing and general mountaineering, stainless steel and aluminum crampons are both good options for travel over and up both soft and firm snow on steeper angles. When you only need crampons to climb a couloir or for snow travel, aluminum is the lightest but may deform when contacting rock.

For most snow and alpine ice climbing, carrying boot crampons gives an extra layer of safety and confidence; however, for ski mountaineering or glacier travel, ski crampons can provide better comfort and speed and allow the skier to maintain glide and fluid motion over low angle terrain. It’s not a bad idea to carry both if you are climbing/skiing peaks and larger objectives.

Ski Crampons

Ski crampons attach to the bindings on your ski and engage when stepping down on that ski. This allows grip and traction on your stationary ski while allowing glide on the motionary ski during each step. Ski crampons provide traction and improved security on icy and firm low-angle sections (up to about 20-25 degrees) but do not provide the grip needed to safely ascend steeper slopes -- having to switch from skis to crampons in a steep, firm section after slipping with ski crampons is dangerous and should be avoided by an earlier transition to boot crampons. Planning transitions saves time and improves safety.

Although aftermarket and third-party options for ski crampons exist, I suggest using the manufacturer-supplied ski crampons for the Dynafit, G3, and Marker bindings carried by Bentgate. These options, shown below with the Radical 2.0, Ion, and Kingpin bindings have secure attachments and allow for nearly frictionless pivot on each step. Keeping the ski crampons sharp insures penetration and minimizes the amount of force needed for each step.


Dynafit Ski Crampons, $74.95
G3 Ion Crampons, $59.95Marker Kingpin Crampons, $99.00


Crampons for boots and skis have come a long way from the days of heavy, clunky pieces of metal. Modern crampons offer the user the ability to climb steeper lines on snow and ice faster and with better security. Putting on crampons and transitioning remain essential, but the variety of modern ski and boot crampon options gives you the ability to access a variety of terrain with minimal weight and wasted time.

  • Backcountry Skiing
  • Ski Mountaineering
  • Peak Skiing
  • Crampons
  • Black Diamond Equipment
  • CAMP
  • G3
  • Marker
  • Dynafit
  • Steep Skiing
  • Ski Crampons

Backcountry Laps - The Things I Carry

Backcountry skiing presents far more variables than skiing in-bounds - being prepared for the unexpected can be critically important. Depending on weather, anticipated tour time/distance, and my familiarity with the area some of these items may of course change, but for the most part, the following items are staples in my pack.Beacon - while [...]

Read More »

Staff Interview: Preparing for the Grand Traverse Ski Mountaineering Race

Two Bentgate employees, Mike C. and Greg H., have been training for the Grand Traverse, a ski mountaineering race that starts in Crested Butte and finishes in Aspen. The race is long, grueling, and requires both technical competence and physical stamina. In addition to testing their personal limits, Mike and Greg will be raising [...]

Read More »

Steep Skiing

My list of steep lines to ski this spring is growing steadily, and I’ve managed to sneak in a few relatively steep turns during the recent period of stability we had here in Colorado. The steep skiing that I have done so far this season has made me realize that I should spend some time [...]

Read More »

Road Tripping

From December 13th to December 31st my brother and I went on a road trip with the intention of skiing powder and then switching over to ice climbing when our legs were too tired to tour. The only real plan we made involved reserving a place to stay in Whitefish, Montana for three days, and [...]

Read More »

Making the most of your day in the backcountry

Unless I’m venturing into some of my favorite backcountry zones that I know like the back of my hand, my tour usually starts long before I put my boots on by studying maps, watching the weather, and monitoring the CAIC. Here are a few of my favorite resources that can help you get the most [...]

Read More »

BGM Staff Ski Setup: Black Crows Anima Freebird

The snow dances that have been a part of our daily routine here have finally been paying off. Ullr delivered a couple feet of fresh snow over the last week and as a result, I’ve spent six days in a row on my setup for deeper days: 182cm Black Crows Anima Freebirds.There were a [...]

Read More »

Gloves and Mittens: Our Selection for Downhill Skiing, Ski Touring, Ice Climbing, and Liners

Gloves can make the difference between the perfect day in the mountains and a miserable one trying to warm up cold fingers. With so many options, and over 40 different glove/mitten styles at Bent Gate alone, choosing the right pair can be confusing or even intimidating. We created this overview of our selection [...]

Read More »

Winter is Here: Are your legs ready?

The late start to winter means that my mid-December tours still feel like early season training missions. After several dawn patrols this week I’m feeling the cumulative effects of 3:00am wake up calls and skinning 2,000-3,000 vertical feet before work. But now that we have a good base and the skiing is worth the effort, my [...]

Read More »

BGM Staff Ski Setup: Black Crows Corvus Freebird

While many of us dream of powder days, the 100+ day season brings myriad conditions - at least here in Colorado’s Front Range - that can really put gear through the wringer. Ideally, I’d have a ski for every snow condition and purpose imaginable, but that simply isn’t in the cards this season. Instead, I’m [...]

Read More »